he opportunities provided by Somerset County’s location on the water—
fishing, crabbing, oystering, and boat building—were able to sustain a
vibrant maritime community for many years. Today, poor water quality due
to pollution from agriculture and other sources has contributed to a decline
in the number of watermen who can make a good living. In response, this hardy, tra-
dition-steeped community is learning some new ways.
My visit to Somerset County began in Crisfield, the heart of Somerset’s maritime area.
At the ferry dock, I met up with Smith Island resident Mary Ada Marshall, who had
agreed to teach me something new: how to bake a Smith Island Cake. The only way
to get to the magic of Mary Ada’s ovens from Crisfield is by ferry. We hopped aboard
the
Captain Jason II
with a few other Smith Island residents who were returning from
errands on the mainland.
T
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